Linen

What it is

Linen is made from the bast fibres of the flax plant (Linum usitatissimum) — long fibres that run up the stem. They are separated from the stalk by retting, which breaks down the pectin binding them together ^[1]. Linen can be woven or knitted ^[1], but most linen you’ll wear is woven.

Why it suits hot, humid weather

• It absorbs and lets go. Linen is very absorbent and dries faster than cotton ^[1], so sweat moves away from the skin instead of sitting on it.
• It feels cool. Linen has a higher thermal conductivity, which is why it feels cool to the touch ^[1].
• It’s strong. Linen is up to three times stronger than cotton, and it gets stronger when wet ^[1].

The trade-offs

• It creases. Linen has low elasticity, so it wrinkles easily. Folding it sharply in the same place over and over can eventually break the threads ^[1].
• It’s textured. Small thick-and-thin spots called slubs appear along the yarn. They were once seen as flaws and are now valued as part of linen’s character; the finest linens have none ^[1].
• It needs a little care. Mildew, perspiration and bleach can all damage it ^[1].

It gets better with age

Linen gets softer the more it is washed ^[1]. A linen shirt that feels stiff on day one often becomes the softest thing you own.

What weight to expect

Shirting linen usually falls somewhere around 120–200 GSM; heavier linens are used for trousers and home textiles. Because linen is so absorbent, a lighter, more open weave tends to feel best in Indian summers.